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Alaska
2007
by Charles Wohlforth
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.”
—Booklist
“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”
—Glamour Magazine
“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”
—Des Moines Sunday Register
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
About the Author
Charles Wohlforth
is a lifelong Alaskan who has been a writer and journalist since 1986.
Wohlforth lives in Anchorage with his wife, Barbara, sons Robin and Joseph, and daugh-
ters Julia and Rebecca. His book about Eskimos experiencing warming in the Arctic is
titled
The Whale and the Supercomputer: On the Northern Front of Climate Change
(North
Point Press, $14)
.
Wohlforth can be reached through his website, www.wohlforth.net.
Published by:
Wiley Publishing, Inc.
111 River St.
Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
Copyright © 2007 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No
part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in
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Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John
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of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their
respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor
mentioned in this book.
ISBN-13:
978-0-471-94554-3
ISBN-10: 0-471-94554-4
Editor: Billy Fox
Production Editor: Michael Brumitt
Cartographer: Andrew Dolan
Photo Editor: Richard Fox
Anniversary Logo Design: Richard Pacifico
Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services
Front cover photo: Juneau Ice Field: Mendenhall Glacier, woman kayaker in foreground.
Back cover photo: Homer, Kachemak Bay: Eagle landing on prey, top of water.
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54321
Contents
List of Maps
vii
What’s New in Alaska
1
1
The Best of Alaska
4
1
The Best Views . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
2
The Best Alaska Cruises . . . . . . . . . . .5
3
The Best Glaciers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
4
The Most Beautiful Drives &
Train Rides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
5
The Best Fishing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
6
The Best Tips for Cooking Salmon . . . .9
7
The Best Bear Viewing . . . . . . . . . . .10
8
The Best Marine Mammal
Viewing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
9
The Best Encounters with
Native Culture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
10
The Best Museums &
Historic Sites . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
11
The Best Winter Destinations . . . . . .12
12
The Strangest Community Events . . .12
13
The Best Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
14
The Best Websites . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
2
Planning Your Trip to Alaska
15
1
The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Alaska by the Numbers . . . . . . . . . .16
2
When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Alaska Calendar of Events . . . . . . . .21
Only-in-Alaska Events . . . . . . . . . . . .22
3
Cost & Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
4
Getting There & Getting Around . . . .25
Native Art: Finding the Real Thing . .26
5
Escorted Tour or Do-It-Yourself? . . . .31
Frommers.com: The Complete
Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
6
Planning an Outdoor Vacation . . . . .35
A Salmon Primer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
7
Entry Requirements . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
8
Travel & Rental Car Insurance . . . . . .44
Using the Internet on the Road . . . .45
9
Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46
10
Specialized Travel Resources . . . . . . .51
Fast Facts: Alaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54
3
Suggested Alaska Itineraries
60
1
Southeast Alaska in a Week . . . . . . .61
2
Two National Parks in a Week . . . . .62
Itinerary Add-Ons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64
3
A 2-Week Grand Loop . . . . . . . . . . .64
4
A Week in Alaska with Children . . . .67
5
A Week of Alaska Winter Sports . . . .69
Doubling Up the Seasons . . . . . . . . .70
iv
CONTENTS
4
Cruising Alaska’s Coast
71
by Jerry Brown & Fran Wenograd Golden
1
Weighing Your Cruise Options . . . . .72
2
The Best Cruise Experiences
in Alaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .75
3
Booking Your Cruise . . . . . . . . . . . . .77
Shore Excursions: The What,
When & Why . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78
4
The Small-Ship Cruise Lines . . . . . . .81
5
The Big-Ship Cruise Lines . . . . . . . . .85
5
Southeast Alaska
91
1
Exploring Southeast Alaska . . . . . . . .92
2
Ketchikan: On the Waterfront . . . . . .99
Fast Facts: Ketchikan . . . . . . . . . . .103
Majestic Misty Fjords . . . . . . . . . . .112
3
Wrangell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .115
Fast Facts: Wrangell . . . . . . . . . . . .116
4
Petersburg: Unvarnished Threshold
to the Outdoors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124
Fast Facts: Petersburg . . . . . . . . . .126
5
Sitka: Rich Prize of Russian
Conquest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .133
Fast Facts: Sitka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .137
Rent a Floathouse . . . . . . . . . . . . .146
6
Juneau: Forest Capital . . . . . . . . . .148
Fast Facts: Juneau . . . . . . . . . . . . .151
A Juneau Walking Tour . . . . . . . . .154
Remote Cabins on Foot . . . . . . . . .164
A Day Trip to Tracy Arm . . . . . . . . .166
7
Glacier Bay National Park . . . . . . . .174
8
Gustavus: Country Inns & Quiet . . .179
9
Haines: Eagles &
the Unexpected . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .183
Fast Facts: Haines . . . . . . . . . . . . .186
10
Skagway: After the Gold Rush . . . .192
The Gold Rush in Context . . . . . . . .194
Fast Facts: Skagway . . . . . . . . . . . .197
6
Anchorage & Environs
204
1
Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .208
Fast Facts: Anchorage . . . . . . . . . .212
2
Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .213
3
Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .221
4
What to See & Do . . . . . . . . . . . . .227
Walking Tour: Downtown
Anchorage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .228
5
Getting Outside . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .237
6
Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .244
7
Anchorage Nightlife . . . . . . . . . . . .245
8
Out from Anchorage: Turnagain
Arm & Portage Glacier . . . . . . . . . .246
Tidal Wave . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .248
9
Out from Anchorage: Girdwood &
Mount Alyeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .251
10
Out from Anchorage: The Matanuska
& Susitna Valleys . . . . . . . . . . . . . .255
7
The Kenai Peninsula & Prince William Sound
258
1
Exploring the Kenai Peninsula &
Prince William Sound . . . . . . . . . . .259
2
The Seward Highway:
A Road Guide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .262
3
Chugach National Forest:
Do-It-Yourself Wilderness . . . . . . . .265
4
Whittier: Dock on the Sound . . . . . .270
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